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In the realm of high fashion, Viktor & Rolf are notorious for their avant-garde creations that challenge the boundaries of conventional silhouettes. Their latest fall couture collection, ‘Haute Abstraction,’ marks a significant departure from their previous works, offering a playful and colorful interpretation of extreme shapes.
Unlike their previous black-heavy and conceptually driven spring collection, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren sought a lighter and more optimistic approach for fall 2024. Inspired by their iconic “Atomic Bomb” collection from 1998, they delved into geometric shapes and abstract forms, creating exaggerated volumes and optical illusions.
The ‘Haute Abstraction’ collection is an exploration of abstract shapes that mimic the lines and curves found in couture sketches. Triangular shoulder lines, spherical blouses, and vanishing point patterns create a sense of disorientation and surprise. Yet, amidst the geometric playfulness, there’s a hint of familiarity, as if the abstract forms were subtly reminiscent of classic tailoring.
Despite the abstract nature of the collection, Horsting and Snoeren embraced vibrant colors and bold print collisions. The result is a playful and energetic vibe that evokes the carefree spirit of the 1980s. Oddly fitted lapels and off-kilter hems add a touch of surrealism, while trompe-l’oeil effects further blur the lines between reality and illusion.
Beneath the eye-catching shapes and prints lies the impeccable craftsmanship that Viktor & Rolf are renowned for. Intricate crinoline structures provide support for the exaggerated volumes, crafted from luxurious fabrics such as satin duchesse, jacquards, and silks.
In a world of conservative couture silhouettes, Viktor & Rolf’s ‘Haute Abstraction’ collection offers a refreshing dose of creativity. It’s a playful and imaginative departure from tradition that invites the audience to embrace the power of abstraction. As Horsting and Snoeren aptly put it, “Sometimes, a bit of abstraction gives a breather.”
Viktor & Rolf’s ‘Haute Abstraction’ collection is a testament to their unwavering pursuit of innovation and artistry. By blending abstract shapes with playful colors and meticulous construction, they have created a collection that is both visually striking and thought-provoking. It’s a welcome departure from the norm, reminding us that fashion can be a canvas for boundless creativity and imagination.
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